REVIEW WINTER 2013

Winter 2013 Nepal :
Ice Trip january in Marpha, and Khumbu Trip february. Review  http://gurungsuman.blogspot.fr/2013_01_01_archive.html

ICE KO KHOJI MA

Larkye Peak

Back from Larkye expedition.

Larkye peak 6249m is located in Manaslu region in Nepal. Which is only one trekking peak from manaslu region till yet.

 

Mt. Manaslu 8156m

Climbing Larkye peak is not so easy as a other 6000m trekking peaks. Normaly Climb 6000m trekking peak in Nepal, base camp up to summit go to back 1 to 3 days is enough.

For Larkye Peak this is not enough coz up to base camp, most be need to set advance camp and camp I then try summit. This is like expedition style so most be need minmum up to 4 days climbing time.

Manaslu region become more popular for trekker's and climber's. With a short time vacation climber's came to try climb this mountain to got 6000m experiance in the high altitude,Himalaya. Many organization take so light to climb Larkye, as a other trekking peak. Without well information They send climber's and when climber's arrived on the sport they are not able to climb Larkye peak in this short time so in option they climb North peak 6065m since few years. Peak can be climb from base camp or from high camp.This is rocky mix with snow peak. Not easy too but can be able to climb in 2 days. From summit have really beautiful panorama view with Mt. Manaslu, Nadi Chuli, Himal Chuli, Baudha Himal, Sonam Himal, Ganesh Himal, Chamar Himal, Langtang Himal, Annapurna Himal and Tibet.

About my trip:

This season october/ november have alot of snow in the Himalaya.It was a hard season coz of heavy snow. Anyway as i have strong climber's with a great smile we really try our best to push for summit with full power dhat-bhat...I enjoy alot...........

Wild himalayan Blue sheep

On the way of Larkye Pass

Our team in Larkye Pass 5100m for group photo

Mr Bhadre & Gio on action

Setting base camp 4900m

On the top of Larkye Peak

Dhal-Bhat

Around Manaslu trekking & climbing Larkye Peak  team : Automne 2013

Larkya 6249m Expedition 2013

All is ready for departure larkya peak from Kathmandu.

Departure 21 october .  

Magic Chris

Today was a day more then what i expected. I naver climb also like this route hard but so beautiful. This is one of my hardest multi-pitch climbing route still yet. L1: 6c  around 15m climbing, end 5m ask more mind. L2: 6c+ some beautiful move with traverse and ending  take out is a most hard move which is impressive. L3: 7a not so long, beginning  there is some good point, from mid part it's incritable very small hand hold point and nothing realy for foot point which make me so hard. L4 : 6c more comfortable with good hand and foot hold point but of course climbing is not finished till end.

As a many time today also my patner was Mr. Gary Jullian. He is big climbing fan Calanques.

http://www.camptocamp.org/outings/466396/fr/calanques-marseilleveyre-magic-chris

http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/430682/fr/calanques-marseilleveyre-magic-chris

VALLON DES AIGUILLES - CALANQUES

I am ready 7a

First pitch 6c

THIS BEAUTIFUL ROCK FROM CALANQUES

TOPO

CLIMBING : La Mitre ( Les Calanques )

I am happy to have climb this week with my friend Gary. Tuesday 3 September i have done black line wich is new route. first pitch is nice 6a to make warm and  seconde route 6c wich is hard and technique and long route, need really consantation till end , well this is most beautiful pitch. Third route is short pitch which is 7a there is two point which is hard move otherwise nice pitch. Last fourth pitch is 6c rock is not solide, have to climb very lightly and most be careful. Overall nice route i realy enjoy have to climb with Garry. Thank you Garry.

Topo: La Mitre, Vallon des Aiguilles, Marseilleveyre , Les  Calanques

 Today 5 September we was back same sport. This morning we done La Mitre route which is historique route made first ascend in 1940 i am  proud and happy to do this nice route first pitch 5c+ nothing special Second pitch 6c is amazing route i love it and last pitch is not interesting.

Afternoon after brek we made route Passion de Fela realy small hand point so it was hard 6c but nice pitch and second pitch is 6a+ but i got it's more hard maybe 6b realy nice pitch beginning to end porfect move. Last 6b pitch nice end nothing very special. 

Good day,good climbing proud of my friend Gary 

Gary Jullian

Mont Blace du Tacul 4248m

We left around 7am in the morning Chamonix (1030m) with cable car and we arrived around 7h30 in Aiguille du midi (3800m).

We spend around 5h climbing time from Aiguille du midi to Aiguille du midi.
It was exellent day with good weather no wind. We enjoy a lot in this trip.

Altitude min / max : 3800m / 4248m
Elevation positive : 750m
Difficulty ascend part: 550m
Course : Glacier
Orientation: North Face
Itinerary : Same way
Time : One day
Slope : 35° -45°
Difficulty : III (Most of a day of roped climbing)
Grade: PD a littile difficult (Some tehnical climbing and complicated glaciers)

TOPO

From : Aiguille du midi first descend 250m

Crossing rimaye where to be take care always

Good weather, we enjoying this climbing

Last part mixed around 30m 

It's not extrem so be cool.......

First Summit and our food on the snow direction for second summit

I am standing on second Summit behind me two summits les mots and Mont Blanc

Viwe From second Summut: 

Mont Blanc 4810m

Itinerary : Les trois monts
This is also normal route to got summit Mont blanc from Aiguille du midi.
Cable car Chamonix to Aigulle di midi 3842m and decend to join refuge des Cosmiques 3613m.
From refuge cours takes around 6 -7 hours to got summit and same route back around 5 - 6 hours till Aiguille de midi.
I enjoy climb mont blanc from this route.
Weather was excellent in the moring around 6am strong wind up to 4000m. as a sunny day not so cold. Busy route also coz a day good weather  we are around 60 climbers on the same route in morning. Beautiful view panorama i realy enjoy myself.

Altitude Min/Max : 3532m/4810m
Elevation gain : 1660m
length : 22.3km
Overall rating : PD+ (french)
Type of route: Roundtrip / rappelling
Time: 2 days
Slope: 50 °
Orientation: N

topo

After col du Maudit

Sun rise

Mont Blanc with sun rise

Mont blanc

Top of Mont blanc

Mont Maudit

 Col du maudit : Verticul  50°-55° around 50m. 

Verticul  50°-55° around 50m. 

Going up Epaule du Tacul 

Last descend in Tacul

 crossing cravasse 

Col du aiguille du midi camping tentes

Piknik in col aiguille du midi safe place

Climbing up last part to join cable car 

Arrived Aiguille du midi 

Grand Paradis 4061m

History : First ascend  made by John Jeremy Cowell and William Dundas, with guides Michel-Clement Payot and Jean Tairraz, 4 september 1860.

Italian Mounta, Grand Paradis  is one of accessible 4000m summit in Alps for climbers. This mountain is always busy coz in summer there is many climbers come for summit and in winter skier. Also busy coz this mountain give beautiful panorama view from top in other many massif .

Depature from Refuge Vittorio Emanuele II 2735m
Ascend positive 1329m
Hours : around 5h
Difficult : E ( cours in snow )

So glad to meet in this Refuge Vittorio Emanuele II 2735m our Nepali friend. I spead one night there, they are so nice  people all team from this refuge.

TOPO

Last Camping Pont Breuil 1952m . Valsavarenche : there is road till here.

First day going up to Refuge Vittorio Emanuele II 2735m

Refuge Vittorio Emanuele II

From Refuge

Refuge Vittorio Emanuele II

Depature for Grand Paradis in Italian

They go a place

Every days here is diffirent foot 

Depature in the morning

Morning short : climbers going on

Climbers going up and down

Summit route from left to right follow rige till top of rocky part 

short from starding rock point

view panorama in massif mont blanc

climbers on the route : photo from top

30 maters last summit part is rock bouldering there is around 3,4 bold set already. So every boys can not go easyily on true summit.

Top of Grand Paradis