Suman Gurung: Mera Peak 6476m

My Mera Trip this Spring (April) 2014:

About Mera Peak:

Mera Peak is a mountain in the Mahalangur section, Barun sub-section of the Himalaya and administratively in Nepal's Sagarmatha Zone, Solukhumbu District. At 6,476 metres (21,247 ft) it is classified as a trekking peak. It contains three main summits: Mera North, 6,476 metres (21,247 ft); Mera Central, 6,461 metres (21,198 ft); and Mera South, 6,065 metres (19,898 ft),

The first ascent of Mera Central was on May 20, 1953 by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing (who was known by the nickname The Foreign Sportsman). Mera North was first climbed by the French climbers Marcel Jolly, G. Baus and L. Honills in 1975. The region was first explored extensively by British expeditions in the early 50s before and after the ascent of Everest. Members of those teams included Edmund Hillary, Eric Shipton and George Lowe.

The view from the summit is one of the finest in the Himalaya with five 8,000m peaks visible: Mount Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga, as well as other Himalayan peaks linked below. The standard route from the north involves high altitude glacier walking. The ease of reaching this elevation may be its biggest danger but good weather and snow conditions are, of course, necessary for safety and success. The west and south faces of the peak offer more difficult technical routes.

In 1986 Mal Duff and Ian Tattersall made the first ascent of the south west pillar. The route is approximately 1,800 metres (5,900 ft) in length and graded at ED inf. The approach to the base of the pillar is extremely exposed to serac fall.