Saturday, 21 April 2012

Thorong Peak

Thorong Peak 6144m. is located in  famous trekking route round Annapurna Trail, This Peak is under Nepal goverment Peak . This is classic Peak wich is best who want to climb first time 6000m Peak in Nepal and who like stye Alpain best one .
Thorong -La Pass 5446m  highest  point for trekker's who do around Annapurna trekking. So for climbers this base on the top of Thorong-la pass to attamp Thorong Peak 6144m .This is white mountain for me coz there is only snow and ice slope it's around 45°to 60° steep ice part. 

This is first time i do plan go to climb peak in Nepal ( Himalaya) alone not for win money work with clients just to do pleasure myself and spend some money. My friends and family thik i am crazy. Well , it was long time i do not have been in Annapurna round  so i realy like to back there i chose Thorong-La Peak which is i naver made befor. So take two weeks time to enjoy there myself . Is star realy cool to got alot of guide and others friends around the way. It's realy change today there coz of road . It's also good from village people and who want to do mountaineering, also short time trekker's. Continue my trip Manag is rest point for all trekker's so for guide also, as i met alot of friends i stay also in rest so two night party ( music and dance) it was realy cool just between guides.

Party Finish: Steep up Thorong-La Pass 5416m
Every years tourist die there coz with guide and  without altitude knowledge. This time also one korian die before phedi in around 4300m altitude. Trekker's last night before Thorong la is in Phedi 4400m or hight camp 4900m for ma my base camp was on the top of Thorong -La 5416m.
Weather was not realy good but no windy so it was okay. 15 min after walk i got rocky part just have be careful coz it'srealy strong ice with bad condition. it was around 55° to 65° vertical around 60m after good slope 45° round 200m and havey snow part after that around 300m 40° 65° slope and in midel one rocky part which is not compulsory and last part it summit part which is long walk on the top . I do not have raly good view coz of bad weather well in overall happy to made this trip with Thorong Peak and back Annapurna.

First day looking snow and ice condition.

Starding Point.

My Petzl Ice Axe for Thorong Peak

 summit part

Thorong Peak Topo

Monday, 2 April 2012

Multi-pitch climbing route

Multi-pitch climbing route "DUSYT"
1 st route 6b, 30 m ,10 sets quck runners
2 nd route 6b, 20m, 6 sets quck runners
3 rd route 6b, 15m, 6 sets quck runners

Since long tome i am looking good rock sport place ofcours  not so far from Kathmandu coz my gol is training climbing place for guide and give to climbing education for nepali young people. Finaly i got Bimalnagar rock sport place  which is perfect coz located between Kathmandu and Pokhara on the hight way. I know this  place since 2010. There was open some climbing route already by first nepalais Mountain Guide Mr. Sunar Gurung also this year recendly by Mountain Guide Prem Gurung so i plan also put one more multi-pitch climbing route. My two friends Mountain Guide Tulsi Gurung and Tenzeeng Sherpa partishipend with me for this project. We open this route as a best for nepali mountains guides for train as a multi-pitch climbing  and as a aid climbign so we set this route  in 3 pitch total hight 65m. at same time there is good crak so they can do also aid climbing who have devices . We give DUSTY name this route becouse we lost many time just for clean so many dust and we do not got time to think another name so we give "DUST" it's realy fun, when i think now.

 Next project will be there open more new difficult climbing route up to 7a. 

Driling 3rd  pitch
Route cleaning and setting

Tenzeeng driling in 1 st route in the evening

From left to right : Tenzeeng, Tulsi, Deepak and me ( Equipment manage)