Friday, 7 December 2012

Most beautiful 6c from planet

Monday 3 December 2012 Three friends move from Marseille in Calanques for multi-pitch climbing .
Secter : BELVEDERE- S├ębastien which is one of the famous multi-pitch climbing part in Calanques.
We selected two diffirents routes from sea to summit.
1) LE TOBOGGAN DE LA CORNICHE 
2)LE CHEMIN DU ROUCAS BLANC
It was a perfect day for us good weather , very dry rocks with perfect clips, perfect lines very nice climbing so much fun with funney joks etc





ROUTE : LE TOBOGGAN DE LA CORNICHE 
 JACQUES EMERY ( 1995 )

L1 6a+  ( 25M )
L2 5c    ( 50M )
L3 5c+  ( 20M )

Richard : first pitch 6a+


Garry : Second pitch 5c

My two friends in full action and me with Camara

ROUTE : LE CHEMIN DU ROUCAS BLANC
BERNARD PRIVAT ( 2001 )

L1 : 6b   ( 45M )
L2 : 6a+ ( 45M )
L3 : 6c   ( 45M )

On edge of crazy 6c 

CASTELVIEIL from amezing 6c hold

Pri-ready for most beautiful 6c

View from 6c

Action on 6c

Tuesday, 18 September 2012

WITH FRIENDS


Calanques is always beautiful. For it's always great plasure to be climb here with friends from sea to summit multi-pitch climbing. Nice weather , little bit hot so perfect climbing and swimming oh it was so good.


calanques sormiou


Cret Saint Michel  (MORION)

I was just haapy

On the top me and David

Rapelling 


From right : Santosh , David and me




David on 6a

View : MORGION

DAVID push one more




SANTOSH 


SANTOSH on 6a










Monday, 10 September 2012

PURE ROCK

Back in south France mediterranean in Calanques.
I want try  hard route sport climbing possible to see and feel what i can??? but it's not so easy to got friends for climb. Well i am trying my best to take chance to climb here more possible as together with friends or alone as well.

Yesterday was lucky day i went with my friends Richu & Santosh to do one multi-pitch climbing route  in morning which was always nice.
Afternoon we meet Jean- Luc Allinne , Pierre Clarac two monitar climbing who made alot of route in Calanques so we climb with them together in secter VALLON DES AIGULLES - SAFER SEX which secter has been open since 1988 by them .

It's was great time cimbing there with them and share a moment

Routes:
L  :  MISTER GEORGES 6b
H :  CONNOLLY'S CORNER 6c+ (7a)
J  :  AIOLIWOOD 7a+
G :  KINGSTON KARMA 7b












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Monday, 20 August 2012

LES BANS 3670M ( PICARD-VERNET+BANS )

Topo


18/08/2012 : I left Ailefroide  18h45 with my friend Fabrice.
Direction of Bans : After 30 min drive from Ailefroide to parking and 1h30 hiking direction of Refuge de Bans and find bivouac. We got a good bivouac place. Warm night so good sleep in 2100m.

19/08/2012 : Wek up 6 am, leave from bivouac 6H30.
After around 2 hours hiking and start climbing. First 700m part route name was PICARD/VERNET.
Beautiful Aid Climbing (not equipped) route, not so difficult IV+ max .
First ascend was made Chenais, Picard, Schermann and Jean Vernet in 1938.
I realy enjoy to climb this route.
After finish route PICARD/VERNET we continue normal route Bans till summit BANS 3670m.Always Aid climbing  more style alpain with short ropes tecnique cross ridge so it was more beautiful and interesting we arrive 1H30 on the top of BANS. We made almost around 1000m climbing till summit and including hiking around 1550m ascend.
Till summit perfect weather with perfect vie, we enjoy  moment and now time to go down come back SAFE. Weather forecast announce afternoon bad weather. When i tell that my friend, he do not believe me.

Well we start descend : As a route was long we wish to take descend from short way. As a there was diffirent route in topo map we choice route  OUVREZ LES BANS which is equipet  for both ascend and descend. Route was open  by JM Combon in 1997.
Found this rappels was not so easy. We lost almost around one hour time with 3 times up and down at last we got it. With 8 rappels 350m down we was on the glacier.
Now cross glacier which was still not win . It was most challenge part for this day becouse glacier condition was very poor. Search passage  in glacier we lost around 2 hours times for doing up and down, left-right.
Bad weather arrived  very fast and soon evening so situation became more sirius  so i take decision with my friend to cross any how as fast as safe possible becouse we do not have other option. We made descend very uncomfortable in ice and rock with rain .

At last i said ohu.................we are safe.
We arrive at  bivouac place at 19H30.
A day full adventure                ......it will be a day memorial for me in Alps and It was beautiful experince.......









SUMMIT BANS 3670M

 SUMMIT 

View  from summit from left ( Ecrin ,Ailefroide , Pic sans nom, Pelvoux )


From left Ratou, Maije