Monday, 20 August 2012



18/08/2012 : I left Ailefroide  18h45 with my friend Fabrice.
Direction of Bans : After 30 min drive from Ailefroide to parking and 1h30 hiking direction of Refuge de Bans and find bivouac. We got a good bivouac place. Warm night so good sleep in 2100m.

19/08/2012 : Wek up 6 am, leave from bivouac 6H30.
After around 2 hours hiking and start climbing. First 700m part route name was PICARD/VERNET.
Beautiful Aid Climbing (not equipped) route, not so difficult IV+ max .
First ascend was made Chenais, Picard, Schermann and Jean Vernet in 1938.
I realy enjoy to climb this route.
After finish route PICARD/VERNET we continue normal route Bans till summit BANS 3670m.Always Aid climbing  more style alpain with short ropes tecnique cross ridge so it was more beautiful and interesting we arrive 1H30 on the top of BANS. We made almost around 1000m climbing till summit and including hiking around 1550m ascend.
Till summit perfect weather with perfect vie, we enjoy  moment and now time to go down come back SAFE. Weather forecast announce afternoon bad weather. When i tell that my friend, he do not believe me.

Well we start descend : As a route was long we wish to take descend from short way. As a there was diffirent route in topo map we choice route  OUVREZ LES BANS which is equipet  for both ascend and descend. Route was open  by JM Combon in 1997.
Found this rappels was not so easy. We lost almost around one hour time with 3 times up and down at last we got it. With 8 rappels 350m down we was on the glacier.
Now cross glacier which was still not win . It was most challenge part for this day becouse glacier condition was very poor. Search passage  in glacier we lost around 2 hours times for doing up and down, left-right.
Bad weather arrived  very fast and soon evening so situation became more sirius  so i take decision with my friend to cross any how as fast as safe possible becouse we do not have other option. We made descend very uncomfortable in ice and rock with rain .

At last i said ohu.................we are safe.
We arrive at  bivouac place at 19H30.
A day full adventure       will be a day memorial for me in Alps and It was beautiful experince.......



View  from summit from left ( Ecrin ,Ailefroide , Pic sans nom, Pelvoux )

From left Ratou, Maije 

Tuesday, 7 August 2012


Yesterday 06/08 /2012 still 18 pm i do not have idea what can i do tomorrow. As a i made two year ago fist solo in Alps Dôme des Ecrin 4015m i was thinking to do Barre de Ecris 4103m coz i know this mountain already. For do  that i need car to drive till Pré de madame carle  which was not possible. After dinner i thord why not i try Pelvoux it was totaly new for me so it become my plan . 

Day summit: 07/08/2012
I  was wek up 2 am with my coffe and i left Ailefroide1470m Gite Leï Mendi where i work at 2h 30 am. Till arrive Refuge de Pelvoux 2700m was long walk. Which takes normal walk around 3 hours. Also for me it was  hard and long walk but as  i am alone i was fast. After Refuge two small part rock climbing where have to be careful in the morning time  and around 300m ice culler which exposed 40° to 60° also mixed and some crivash. If there is snow it's safe and easy but if there is only ice and rock it's not so safe so most be careful with rock and ice fall. overrall  good route i enjoy it with perfect weather and perfect view.

On the top of Pelvoux

Mt. Pelvoux 3943m (From Glacier Blane)

Ice culler

Befor summit rige ( way of  travasse Pelvoux )

From summit

View from last part of ice culler 

Refuge Pelvoux

Sunday, 5 August 2012


Always in Ailefroide, this time i made with my friend aid climbing which is historical route call FISSURE D'AILEFROIDE Which is very populer here. It's easy, nice route and very good rocks crak i love it .First ascend was made by Lionel Terray near 1941. Total high is 280m , difficult 5b max with 9 multi-pitch (4c, 4b, 4c, 4b, 5b, 4c, 4b, 5b, 3b) with two half rope 60m it's perfect climbing. Total ascend time is around 4 hours.

Saturday, 4 August 2012


AILEFROIDE : one of paradis in the world for climbers.
As a i am here this summer i am doing as well possible more things. Like : bouldering ,sport climbing, multi-picth climbing, aid climbing and mountaineering.

Multi-pitch climbing

Secter :1
Open : JM Combon 2006
Total ascend : 280M
Difficult : 6b Max ( 5c, 6a, 5c, 6b, 6a, 6a, 5c, 6a+, 6a)
Beautiful route, diffirents rocks nice climbing. We was three friends total ascend time 4h and decend by feet around 15min.

Secter 16
Open : Sylvain, JM Combon (1992)
Total ascend : 250m
Difficult : 6a Max ( 5c+, 5c, 5c+, 4b, 5c+, 5a, 4b, 6a )
Easy route but of cours diffirent  coz climbing around the waterfal and cross waterfal it was first time so i enjoy.
In the 5th pitch Cascade Blues taking photo myself