Monday, 20 August 2012



18/08/2012 : I left Ailefroide  18h45 with my friend Fabrice.
Direction of Bans : After 30 min drive from Ailefroide to parking and 1h30 hiking direction of Refuge de Bans and find bivouac. We got a good bivouac place. Warm night so good sleep in 2100m.

19/08/2012 : Wek up 6 am, leave from bivouac 6H30.
After around 2 hours hiking and start climbing. First 700m part route name was PICARD/VERNET.
Beautiful Aid Climbing (not equipped) route, not so difficult IV+ max .
First ascend was made Chenais, Picard, Schermann and Jean Vernet in 1938.
I realy enjoy to climb this route.
After finish route PICARD/VERNET we continue normal route Bans till summit BANS 3670m.Always Aid climbing  more style alpain with short ropes tecnique cross ridge so it was more beautiful and interesting we arrive 1H30 on the top of BANS. We made almost around 1000m climbing till summit and including hiking around 1550m ascend.
Till summit perfect weather with perfect vie, we enjoy  moment and now time to go down come back SAFE. Weather forecast announce afternoon bad weather. When i tell that my friend, he do not believe me.

Well we start descend : As a route was long we wish to take descend from short way. As a there was diffirent route in topo map we choice route  OUVREZ LES BANS which is equipet  for both ascend and descend. Route was open  by JM Combon in 1997.
Found this rappels was not so easy. We lost almost around one hour time with 3 times up and down at last we got it. With 8 rappels 350m down we was on the glacier.
Now cross glacier which was still not win . It was most challenge part for this day becouse glacier condition was very poor. Search passage  in glacier we lost around 2 hours times for doing up and down, left-right.
Bad weather arrived  very fast and soon evening so situation became more sirius  so i take decision with my friend to cross any how as fast as safe possible becouse we do not have other option. We made descend very uncomfortable in ice and rock with rain .

At last i said ohu.................we are safe.
We arrive at  bivouac place at 19H30.
A day full adventure       will be a day memorial for me in Alps and It was beautiful experince.......



View  from summit from left ( Ecrin ,Ailefroide , Pic sans nom, Pelvoux )

From left Ratou, Maije 

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